Birdsall brings both scholarly research and a queer lens to Beard’s life, braiding the strands of privilege and pain, performance and anxiety, into an entirely new story. In other words: James Beard, who died in 1985 at age 81, was a master of the charcuterie board long before it became a staple on Instagram and Pinterest - and even before those platforms’ founders were born.ĭiscovering seeds of the present in the past happens again and again when revisiting Beard’s body of work, which I did this fall in anticipation of the first new biography of him in 30 years: “ The Man Who Ate Too Much,” by John Birdsall, published in October by W.W. And with the cheeses, I serve thinly sliced rye bread and crackers of some kind and a bowl of fruit.” I also like to have another board of cheeses: Swiss Gruyère, a fine Cheddar and maybe a Brie. “I put out a big board of various slicing sausages - salami, Polish sausage, whatever I find in the market that looks good - and an assortment of mustards. Fifty years ago, this is how the foremost American food authority described his favorite menu for a holiday open house:
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